Vietnamese Iced Coffee (Cà Phê Sữa Đá)

Debate and discussion are two of my favorite activities. For two years in high school I was on the debate team but quit because the actual competitions felt too formal. Well, let's be honest, I just wasn't very good under the pressure. The judges could tell I wasn't quite convinced that I was arguing for the right side as I stumbled over my words in a flustered mess. I'm the kind of person who insists on taking time to think before I speak and this just wasn't the forum for me. I need a comfortable space, like a coffee shop or a friend's living room, where debate means less emphasis on being right and more on discussing and understanding the issue at hand.

Vietnamese iced coffee is perfect for these meetings. The bold flavors of a dark brew and sweetened condensed milk make it a kind of "session" coffee that will keep you awake and lucid enough to speak your mind (not to mention how long it takes to actually make a cup). Though a warning: cà phê sữa đá is not for lovers of the watery stuff because, as my dad likes to say, "it'll put hair on your chest." The condensed milk creates a thicker mouthfeel and sweetness on the tongue than regular coffe, which goes hand in hand with the smokiness of the chicory blended grounds. Although normally made with special individual filters, you could brew a similar punch with a French coffee press. Served hot or on ice, Vietnamese coffee is perfect for an afternoon chat. So get that filter dripping and let's settle in to talk about food stamps.

A few weeks ago I read a mildly irritating article on Salon.com titled "Hipsters on food stamps", or as the program was renamed in 2008, the Supplemental Nutrition Assitance Program (SNAP). I don't really see how the author was able to justfy generalizing an entire group of "new" SNAP recipients with a label that many people immediately associate with entitlement and elitism. I also take issue with implying that an "ethnic market" means exotic and expensive products without actually documenting the cost of purchased items. In my experience "ethnic" stores actually have very competitive prices and a more interesting food selection than most big-name grocery chains. After rolling my eyes (hard) at the title and first paragraph, I composed myself enough to get through the rest of the essay. Despite the sensationalism, the author did convince this eater and writer to take a closer look and reconsider what she knows about food stamps.

Although some may believe that the food stamp program (FSP) was created merely as welfare to lift the down and out, original federal food assistance programs of the early 1040s - 1960s were designed to boost the agricultural industry and improve nutrition in low-income households. Unfortunately, stereotypes of FSP participants spread as the program grew. Federal food assistance has been criticized for enabling laziness, dependency, and perrsonal irresponsibility. According to the non-profit organization Feeding America, about 1 in 6 people face daily hunger in the United States. With such stark numbers, the stigmatization that follows SNAP users seems greatly counterproductive.

Luckily, this may be changing, though at the cost of more people having to enroll due to a troubled economy. The government took a large step forward in 2008 by renaming the program to reduce stigma linked to the term "food stamps" and extended the aid to more people. However, articles like "Hipsters on food stamps" takes us two steps backwards. By implying that the young and educated are taking advantage of the system by choosing to support local co-ops or organic produce centered chains, we revert to the stereotype that those who receive SNAP are the uneducated and desperate. How could hunger possibly be that prejudiced? True, if you are struggling enough to qualify for SNAP then your shopping list should not consist solely of luxury food items. And no, organic produce is not more nutritionally valuable than regular old pesticide produce. But if you know how to structure your diet with healthy choices on a limited budget then maybe you deserve to treat yourself to triple-cream brie every now and then.

 

I digress. What I really wanted to talk about was how the article raised questions concerning food education. Is it really so bad that the author witnessed SNAP being used to buy eggplant and fresh turmeric? Whether you are hungry or overfed, raw ingredients can be difficult to tackle, especially if you are overworked or if money is tight. What SNAP should do is rethink how to promote its fundamental mission of providing financial and nutritional assistance. The rules of SNAP already limit purchases to food products consumed at home (meaning no hot food prepared on site), but this is not enough as it does not exclude processed or packaged foods. SNAP needs to adopt a more present edcuation program about healthful diets and the benefits of home cooking with fresh foods. This could include local nutrition seminars, cooking classes, or community outreach from local farmers markets. In the past when traditional paper stamps were replaced with the current debit card, food stamp sales at open markets dropped in part because sellers were unable to accommodate electronic purchases. Now that the technology is more widely available, there should be a larger initiative to give SNAP sales back to farmers.

Most importantly, we need to focus a lot of attention on teaching our youth that eating well is important to living well. The myth that eating healthy means starving yourself with salads and water needs to stop spreading. Everyone should know that healthy food is good food; it is hearty and flavorful and can be a positive creative outlet. To get an idea of how important young students are to the future of healthy eating, I encourage you to check out this year's TED Prize winner, chef Jamie Oliver. Then, if you can stand it, maybe watch his tv show Jamie Oliver's Food Revolution to see how he plans to bring food and education together. I'll save my comments about his bully tactics for another day, but I will say that it is hard to argue with someone who wants to replace frozen chicken nuggets with meals made by real people.

By now your coffee should be ready to pour over ice, so I'll leave you with a few questions to ponder. Why are people making unhealthy food choices? Is it because they can't afford fresh foods or because they don't know how to take advantage of their options? Do you know anyone who receives SNAP? Does your grocery store or farmers market accept food stamp payment? And if some day you find yourself needing a little bit of help, how would you spend your food stamps?

Vietnamese (Iced) Coffee

Yields 1 serving 

3 to 4 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk   

2 to 3 tablespoons French roast coffee with chicory (such as Cafe Du Monde)*

3/4 to 1 cup boiling water 

Ice (optional)

Special equipment: Vietnamese coffee filter or French coffee press 

Vietnamese coffee filters can be found in most Asian markets or online

Spoon sweetened condensed milk into bottom of coffee mug. Set aside.

Place coffee filter on top of filter cap and spoon in 2 to 3 rounded tablespoons of coffee grounds. Tap filter gently to evenly distribute coffee and to minimize coffee sediment by releasing loose particles. Tightly screw on filter screen until some grounds pass through top. The tighter the screen, the stronger the coffee.

Place filter on top of mug with condensed milk. Pour hot water to top of filter. Replace cap and allow coffee to drip. If desired, top off water for larger serving. Once water has completely passed through, remove filter and stir together coffee and condensed milk. Serve warm or pour over ice and enjoy.

*Dark roast coffee is also suitable if coffee with chicory is unavailable.